Aliyya Swaby Photo
On Three Kings Day, baby Jesus popped out of a fig-topped “rosca de reyes” from a Mexican-owned bakery on Grand Avenue. Hundreds of baby Jesuses in hundreds of fig-topped roscas de reyes.
Francisco Barranco, owner of Panaderia La Tapatia, said his staff made 600 roscas de reyes pastries — or “kings’ rings” — over the course of three days, culminating in a harried day of sales on Tuesday’s Three Kings Day holiday as part of a storied Mexican tradition in Fair Haven.
Not just Mexican families buy the ring-shaped pastry from the bakery; the novelty of the tradition has propelled it through kitchens of different cultures and backgrounds, Barranco said. Some customers pre-ordered earlier in the month to ensure they get one. “It’s something different, but it’s good. It’s nice,” he said.
According to a Bible story, the three kings or “magi” followed a bright star to Bethlehem on the night Jesus was born, and presented the newborn with gold, frankincense, and myrrh. In the U.S., Santa Claus sneaks presents under the Christmas tree on Dec. 24. In Mexico, children write letters to the three magi, who appear with gifts on Jan. 6.
Walking around the bakery Tuesday, Barranco (pictured) was surrounded by piles and piles of boxed rings as well as tall racks of rings on separate trays. La Tapatia sells three sizes of rosca, the smallest of which costs $15 and the largest $35.
The rings are topped with candied figs, butter and jellied dried fruit. The more expensive ones are filled with cheese. All contain small plastic baby Jesus figurines.
The larger ones hide four babies. Families gather round a rosca at night each Jan. 6, slicing one way around the ring and searching for Jesus in each slice. Whoever finds a baby Jesus is supposed to host a party or bring a party favor exactly 40 days later, on Feb. 2, Dia de la Candelaria or the Day of the Candles.
“I cut it and find nothing,” and owe nothing, Barranco said. “You cut it, you find a toy and you bring food to the party.” A second person finds a toy and brings drinks.
The traditions vary, Barranco said. In one version, a person wraps a cloth around the baby Jesus toy and gifts it to a friend, who then is supposed to throw that person a party.
Customers continually entered the store Tuesday early afternoon, then left with boxes of varying sizes. One woman struggled to fit the wide box through the door. Barranco handed a thick slice to a customer who wanted to sample the pastry before purchasing a whole ring. The customer broke a piece off one end and looked for Jesus.