Dining

A Food Co-Op Dream, Revisited

by | Apr 19, 2017 12:31 pm | Comments (2)

Courtesy Doug Coffin

Coffin (at desk), with other original members of the co-op.

Doug Coffin loves the idea of a new food co-op in New Haven, like the one that opened in the late 1960s and closed in the 1980s. But he doubts people have the interest in putting in the time and effort that’s needed to sustain such a place” anymore.

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Money Wins Out Over Sleep In Zoning Votes

by | Apr 13, 2017 3:05 pm | Comments (6)

Markeshia Ricks Photo

Trachten and Decker agreed and then slightly disagreed.

How late should restaurants with bars be allowed to stay open? What should matter more in the decision — the bar’s need to make money, or nearby residents needing sleep?

The Board of Zoning Appeal considered those questions, then decided to allow two proposed restaurant/bars on different sides of town to serve alcohol and provide a reduced amount of parking.

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Creative Arts Workshop Takes A Bite Out Of Fiction

by | Apr 3, 2017 8:02 am | Comments (1)

Lucy Gellman Photo

Carrie Savage’s James & The Giant Peach.

Lego James summited a giant frosted peach. Moby-Dick’s insides were starting to melt. Julien Sorel got blanketed in raspberries. In separate corners, Hemingway’s Robert Jordan traded his bullets for chocolate chips, and sweet Lizzie Bennett firmed up her relationship with a toothpick.

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The Party Bike Sails On Its Maiden Voyage

by | Apr 1, 2017 8:52 pm | Comments (14)

Lucy Gellman Photo

Ready to rumble!

Winding his way down a narrow aisle, Colin Caplan motioned to his left, where the red paneling and small windows of Louis’ Lunch beckoned from the cold. This was the birthplace of the hamburger, Caplan informed his listeners, and now a New Haven legend.

Then he added: Crown Street is all uphill from here, so people will have to pedal a little harder.

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“Shabu Shabu” Hits State Street

by | Mar 30, 2017 2:37 pm | Comments (4)

Dion Liu lifted a long ribbon of raw pork with tweezer-sized tongs, inspecting its slick red surface. He displayed it to the table’s guests. He dipped the pork into a bubbling, boiling metal pot of broth, swishing the meat from side to side for almost a minute. Then he pulled it out, cooked to medium rare, and placed it gingerly on his diners’ plates.

It was now up to the diners to finish the cooking job.

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30 In 30 Club Celebrates Friendship And Foam

by | Mar 2, 2017 4:10 pm | Comments (0)

Karen Ponzio Photo

The 30 in 30 club.

Early in the evening on Wednesday, Outer Space owner Steve Rodgers broke the sound of glasses hitting the bar and people chatting with an exclamation.

Hey everyone, time for a group photo! Bring your glasses!”

He directed the crowd to the stage, where eager patrons took pictures. The subjects smiled, laughed, made gestures behind each other’s heads, hugged, and generally had a blast as friends often do when they’re sharing something they love. In this case — the hosting of the Outer Space’s monthly 30 in 30 club — the something they loved was beer.

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Shell Of Bank May Be Bones For Eatery

by | Feb 20, 2017 8:58 am | Comments (20)

Markeshia Ricks Photo

Banking on dinner at Fountain and Central.

Allan Appel Photo

Dream team Camacho & Bolduc: Headed for Westville?

The empty former First Niagara Bank branch in Westville’s commercial heart may soon find new life as an eatery run by one of the city’s more successful restaurateurs — and revive some of the dining scene lost in the fire at the old Delaney’s across the street.

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Ackee, No Saltfish

by | Jan 27, 2017 1:08 pm | Comments (5)

Markeshia Ricks Photo

Chef Wright. His brother handles the meat.

Inside New Haven’s newest Caribbean restaurant, Qulen Wright sautéd the brightly red and yellow peppers, onions and garlic to create the base for Jamaica’s national dish, ackee and saltfish — except there would be no saltfish.

I’m the vegan cook,” Wright said. So I can make it without the fish.”

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Fish Market Keeps Christmas Eve Tradition Alive

by | Dec 23, 2016 1:10 pm | Comments (4)

Brian Slattery Photo

On Friday morning, cars lined State Street all around the #1 Fish Market. Cars were parked on side streets, and people hustled across the state thoroughfare with grocery bags full of seafood. The market’s own small parking lot was completely full. A line snaked out the door and stretched across the entire front of the building. Some people would be there for hours. But everyone was in a good mood.

They were part of an annual ritual that has been going on for years. The #1 Fish Market — which many consider the best in the New Haven area — becomes the epicenter not only for anyone who wants seafood for their holiday meal, but also specifically for the Italian-American tradition of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, which stipulates that a family serve an enormous meal of, you guessed it, seven fishes on Christmas Eve.

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Students, Refugees Cook Up Acceptance

by | Dec 22, 2016 1:17 pm | Comments (1)

Lucy Gellman Photo

Standing before a hot plate and sacks of sugar, semolina flour, and ground nuts, A (who asked not to be identified by her name) prepared to perform culinary magic. Her hands flew through the still air, 30 pairs of eyes following her every move. The swift flick of her wrist. A spoon stirring slowly through simple syrup.

As she spoke, a fast thread of Arabic running from her to the audience, translator Malak Nasr stepped forward to distill her sentences. Two cups of sugar. Four cups of coarse semolina.

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