Dining

Grape Leaves, Biryani Arrive On Temple Street

by | Sep 23, 2020 10:57 am | Comments (1)

Emily Hays Photo

Havenly Treats Head Chef Nieda Abbas packs up boxes of grape leaves.

The staff wrapped the grape leaves carefully, filled them with just the right amount of tomato sauce and rice. The finished product — an Iraqi appetizer — was then available for purchase for $4.99.

It also served as a way for refugees to train for gainful employment.

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Jazz Returns To Sunday Brunches

by | Sep 14, 2020 9:23 am | Comments (0)

Karen Ponzio Photos

The William Fluker All Star Band at the Orchid Cafe

Jazz and brunch go together like chicken and waffles, like mussels and fries, like eggs and bacon. So when this reporter heard that an old favorite brunch was starting up again and a new one had arrived, I set my sights on checking out both.

Each one had a distinct flavor and sound. Each one reminded me how much I had missed the jazz brunch scene in New Haven — decimated by the Covid-19-related shutdown, but now coming back to life.

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Bus Cafe Serves Up Salmon In Newhallville

by | Sep 4, 2020 8:20 am | Comments (10)

Brian Slattery Photos

Chef Lucky and the Lucky’s Star Bus Cafe crew.

Chef Larry Lucky stood in the kitchen installed in the back of Lucky’s Star Bus Cafe, deftly cooking up a piece of blackened salmon, which he explained was a customer favorite.

The year-old, family-run business recently relocated from Fair Haven to Newhallville — bringing to the neighborhood Lucky’s decades of restaurant experience and his seasoned culinary chops.

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How New Haven Keeps Eating During Covid-19

by | Aug 25, 2020 11:36 am | Comments (8)

Allison Hadley Photo

The Wooster Square farmer’s market, now held at Conte West Hills Magnet School on Chapel Street, buzzed with masked figures, leaning in (but not too close) and pointing at gleaming piles of produce: peppers, tomatoes, leafy greens springing up with an airy confidence.

A farmer paused between transactions to spray hands and surface with disinfectant.

Lines stretched even longer for Jitter Bus’s iced coffee, with six feet the norm between each person in the queue.

Everything was familiar and different, like a filter on Instagram, yet everything had also changed.

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Remodeled And Resilient, Claire’s Reopens

by | Aug 21, 2020 5:42 pm | Comments (6)

Thomas Breen photos

Vegan treats back on display, behind plexiglass.

Claire Criscuolo at her reopened restaurant.

Downtown New Haven feels just a little bit more like Downtown New Haven again, now that Claire’s Corner Copia — remodeled, expanded, and replete with vegan baked goods and a supportive community 45 years in the making—has reopened.

It’s gonna take more than a pandemic to get rid of us,” said Claire Criscuolo, a faint smile visible behind her face mask.

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New Coffee Shop Brings Majlis To Westville

by | Aug 19, 2020 12:07 pm | Comments (6)

Lotta Studio Photos

Inside the new Westville cafe, Pistachio.

The coffee was silky and smooth, with a rich, complex flavor. The foam on the top was thick and creamy, with a stripe of sweetness in it, a mystery ingredient. What made it taste like that? You start with the best bean you can find,” said Mohamed Hafez, architect, artist, and now owner of Pistachio, the new coffee shop opening imminently at Lotta Studio in Westville. Good milk that is fresh and coming from close by.” And maybe, he said, the sweetness came from a dash of agave.

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New Butcher Provides For Upper State Street

by | Aug 19, 2020 10:46 am | Comments (4)

Allison Hadley Photos

McGowan and Mingrone.

Provisions on State — opening on Upper State Street in September — will be New Haven’s only whole-animal butcher shop that uses regional animals; it also plans to have everything you’d need for a simple, excellent meal,” said chef Emily Mingrone, who is busily readying the shop for its opening with business partner Shane McGowan.

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Outdoor Dining Experiment A Hit So Far

by | Jul 31, 2020 4:14 pm | Comments (12)

Alana Dina, Craig Gomes, and Evongee Smart outside Pacifico.

Laura Glesby Photos

South Bay and Pacifico tables bustling on Wednesday night.

Ray Andrewsen felt like he was in Paris. Alana Dina, the Big Apple.

In reality, they were dining on pear and walnut salad and guacamole on College Street in New Haven — not inside eateries, but right out on the sidewalk, part of a Covid 19-sparked experiment that’s breathing new life into downtown’s battered restaurant industry.

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Next Door Comes Out Singing

by | Jul 14, 2020 10:06 am | Comments (1)

Standing in the corner of the back room at Next Door on Saturday evening, Seth Adam rearranged his mask without dropping a beat. The rhythm he had looped stayed steady behind him, and he turned the pause into something musically dramatic, then kept going, singing, and into a lithe solo.

That was tough with a mask on,” he said at the end, when the audience gave him its applause. He mused on the possibility of having a mask that would somehow make it easier to perform music while wearing one. Someone’s going to design one — you know it.”

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In Pandemic, Brothers Chase Arepa Dream

by | Jun 26, 2020 11:02 am | Comments (1)

Laura Glesby Photo

Alejandro and Andres Cordido at their newly opened eatery.

Alejandro and Andres Cordido dreamed for years of starting a restaurant of their own devoted to the Venezuelan recipes they grew up with. They never imagined that opening week would comes amidst a pandemic.

They never pictured tables spread six feet apart. Floor stickers spaced out to help customers keep their distance. Plexiglass barriers between employees behind the counter and the customers they feed. Surfaces sanitized extra frequently. Customers’ smiles undetectable behind their protective masks. 

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Coffeeshop Culture Reawakens

by | Jun 25, 2020 2:26 pm | Comments (1)

Ko Lyn Cheang photo

Recaffeinating, on East Street.

Six days after the state of Connecticut commenced Phase 2 of reopening the economy during the pandemic, allowing coffee shops and restaurants to resume indoor dining at 50 percent capacity, Michael Sakelarakis had just finished taking the final exam for his pediatric advanced life support certificate. He decided to head to The Coffee Pedaler, his favorite neighborhood coffee shop.

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50 Fitch Shut Down Amid Covid Concern

by | Jun 22, 2020 1:15 pm | Comments (22)

Paul Bass Photo

“You’re the problem!” “I’m the solution!”: Marshal Criscuolo spars with co-owner Monsanto outside Fitch 50 at Monday’s paper-serving.

Prompting accusations of racism from the owner, the city closed down the popular 50 Fitch restaurant and bar and revoked its license after an event that drew an estimated 1,000 people to its parking lot amid restrictions aimed at limiting the spread of the coronavirus.

Carlton Staggers (center) at Monday evening support gathering: “We’re standing by” Monsanto.

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The Cellar Does Distance Dinner And A Show

by | Apr 20, 2020 10:21 am | Comments (0)

Karen Ponzio Photos

Eric Vikmanis delivers.

Pete Mould, co-owner of The Cellar on Treadwell in Hamden, was seeing the crowds at his bar and concert venue grow steadily — until the Covid-19 outbreak.

Since the government-mandated closings and alterations of businesses in Connecticut, Mould and his partners Shari and Eric Vikmanis have found a way to keep their patrons coming back for more, albeit at a distance, with The Cellar Presents: Dinner and a Show. This Friday night event pairs curbside pickup of the best of the club’s bar food and drink with live streamed shows on Facebook by bands that have performed or were to have performed at the venue.

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