Food

Madeline's Expands Empanada Universe

by | Oct 31, 2023 2:08 pm | Comments (2)

Nora Grace-Flood Photo

"Sweet Flame" Empanadas! on Spring St.

Independent restaurant review crew with Madeline's owner Hazel Lebron (center) on the beat.

Madeline’s Empanaderia
86 Spring St.

Madeline, the 11-year-old cello player who is also the namesake of a Hill empanaderia, likes the Guava Lava her mother serves there — it’s her favorite, the one that sticks while she goes through phases of Cheeseburger or Sweet Flame.

It’s not mine, though. I liked the Baked Bee, whose combination of sweet potatoes and chili-infused honey surprised me.

But our table couldn’t agree on a favorite, and it’s not hard to tell why. 

Continue reading ‘Madeline's Expands Empanada Universe’

Juice Bar With Middle Eastern Treats Opens On Chapel

by | Oct 19, 2023 3:33 pm | Comments (3)

Lisa Reisman Photo

Jasmeen Hasar and Lamia Mohammad making crepes.

It’s Cezerye, pronounced jehz-air-yeh. It’s made with carrots, nuts, and sugar, and it’s coated with coconut flakes. It conjures an ancient city of mosques and narrow streets, the sounds of a bustling marketplace, the warm, dry Mediterranean air. 

This is only from Latakia, only we do this,” said Ammar Chekhess who, along with his partner, Mohammad Ali, recently opened Marshmallow, at Chaps Grille, on Chapel Street near Park. Chekhess’ wife, Lamia Mohammad, as well as her friend Jasmeen Hasar, run the business. 

Continue reading ‘Juice Bar With Middle Eastern Treats Opens On Chapel’

So Long Home Fries, Hello Malanga

by | Oct 13, 2023 9:16 am | Comments (3)

Allan Appel photo

Maria Espinal with malanga in the right hand, mangu in the left

Humberto and Maria Espinal tried out serving home fries at their home-style, Dominican cuisine-inspired new restaurant on Orange Street in East Rock.

But they quickly learned that customers wanted the real stuff”: malanga, which is pureed root vegetable different if similar to taro root and having a kind of deep nutty taste; and mangu, a puree of green plantains.

We gave it a two-week chance,” Maria said about the staple American-style home fries. But malanga and mangu, to customers’ delight, have won out. 

Continue reading ‘So Long Home Fries, Hello Malanga’

Career Paths Opened At ConnCAT

by | Sep 13, 2023 9:40 am | Comments (1)

Lisa Reisman photo

BioLaunch head trainer and lab operations manager Brionna Davis-Reyes sharing the magic of electrophoresis.

The opportunities must have sounded too good to be true for Alfred Washington, Elizabeth Cropper, and Shayne Miller. 

But there they were, as part of an open house hosted by the Connecticut Center for Arts and Technology (ConnCAT).

Washington, a trainee on the cusp of an internship at a New Haven biotech company, was discussing the separation of protein molecules based on their size and electrical charge. Cropper, an instructor, was demonstrating blood draws in the phlebotomy lab. And Shayne Miller, a Culinary Arts Academy grad, was offering guests a cup of green tea lemongrass ice cream artfully wedged with a sesame seed cookie that he had earlier created.

Continue reading ‘Career Paths Opened At ConnCAT’

Today’s Special: Deari’e’s Surf & Turf

by | Aug 25, 2023 9:20 am | Comments (2)

Lisa Reisman photos

Order's up: Deari'e's Surf & Turf, at Dixwell's Dope N Delicious.

David James, Deari'e Allick, De'Ari Allick Jr., De'Ari Allick, and James Nelson on a recent afternoon at Dope N Delicious.

Talk about a dream summer internship. 

Deari’e Allick, who’s 14 and a student in culinary arts at Eli Whitney Tech, spent the last two months whipping up dishes that range from lamb chops with smashed potatoes to the Pineapple Bowl to, on a recent afternoon, Surf & Turf.

Her boss is her father De’Ari Allick, owner of Dope N Delicious, a pocket-sized joint specializing in southern comfort food, seafood, and soul food at 300 Dixwell Ave. De’Ari learned to cook from his mother Audrey Maysonet. De’Ari passed it on to Deari’e.

Continue reading ‘Today’s Special: Deari’e’s Surf & Turf’

Winnett Food Forest Grows For The Community

by | Aug 23, 2023 8:20 am | Comments (1)

Brian Slattery photo

Adam Matlock.

Adam Matlock, executive director of the nonprofit Winnett Food Forest in Hamden, was moving from garden bed to garden bed with an empty bin. Soon, that bin and another one like it would be filled with fresh greens and a few tomatoes — part of the week’s harvest from a new approach to growing food that leans hard on community and sustainability.

Continue reading ‘Winnett Food Forest Grows For The Community’

In "Paradise," Birria Becomes Tac-O The Town

by and | Aug 1, 2023 8:51 am | Comments (1)

Asher Joseph Photo

A taco truck customer picks up a piña colada at Long Wharf's "Food Truck Paradise."

Asher Joseph Photo

Mark Aronson’s ivory suit, complete with woven tan sun hat, did not stop him from indulging in the dripping tanginess of three birria tacos during a lunchtime visit to Long Wharf’s Food Truck Paradise.

Continue reading ‘In "Paradise," Birria Becomes Tac-O The Town’

Abdussabur Dreams Of A Dope Dixwell

by | Jun 12, 2023 9:10 am | Comments (19)

Thomas Breen photos

Abdussabur (right) passing Dope N Delicious lunch ...

... as campaign supporters pass Black-business-boosting business cards.

As takeout containers filled with fried rice, mac and cheese, chicken wings, and salad changed hands — along with business cards promoting the work of New Haven-raised Black entrepreneurs — Shafiq Abdussabur detailed his vision for bringing back the small-business glory days of the Dixwell Avenue of his youth.

Key ingredients to the revival he pitched include collaboration, public safety, local hiring, and making sure City Hall supports locally sourced ventures as soon as they get off the ground.

Continue reading ‘Abdussabur Dreams Of A Dope Dixwell’

Student Composters Canvass Cross Cafeteria

by | Jun 6, 2023 9:43 am | Comments (3)

Maya McFadden photo

Lila Kleppner: Not going to eat that? Into the compost it goes!

When Wilbur Cross High School senior Lila Kleppner saw a classmate walking toward the cafeteria trash bin, she leapt into action — with a five-gallon bucket in hand, intent on diverting that student’s food scraps from a landfill-bound pile to a community compost heap instead.

Continue reading ‘Student Composters Canvass Cross Cafeteria’