Courtney Luciana photo
Seared Blackened Tuna Tataki.
Chef Nixon Sambuaga of newly opened kosher restaurant Fin and Scale on Whalley.
“You’re going to fall in love,” Chef Nixon Sambuaga promised, “after you try this.”
It was hours before the grand opening Tuesday of a new kosher sushi restaurant at 920 Whalley Ave. called Fin And Scale. Sambuaga was in the kitchen, centering a bamboo leaf on a plate. He sprinkled slices of onion on top. Then he began to slice the blackened tuna tenderloin into quarter-inch wedges, and layered the fish on the whole slice of vegetables.
The came a coat of masago and scallions to add an extra kick of crunch to complement the juicy tuna. He drizzled ponzu sauce the dish and added edible flowers.
Courtney Luciana photo
Sous Chef Herdian and Chef Sambuaga in the Fin and Scale kitchen.
The result — a rich and flavorsome seared blackened tuna tataki — was one of the dishes that Chef Sambuaga and Sous Chef Herdian (who said he goes by his first name) prepared for Tuesday’s grand opening.
Take-out and delivery orders will prove crucial to the ability of local restaurants like Fin and Scale to weather the pandemic during the coming months as Covid-19 cases climb and cold weather sets in. Visit the website to order dishes and learn more about the restaurant, which is open Monday through Thursday from noon to 9 p.m. and Friday from 11 a.m. ‑2 p.m. The phone number is 203 – 553-7905.
Sambuaga, who hails from Manado, Indonesia, has been a chef for 12 years; he has worked with Herdian for the last three. The two have moved their talents from New York to bring Westville a mix of Jewish and Japanese fusion cuisine.
Westville’s on a roll: Esther and Choni Greenblatt outside their new restaurant on Whalley.
Choni and Esther Grunblatt, who live nearby in the neighborhood, own the new restaurant. (Read a previous story here about how they came to open the restaurant.) They hired Sambuaga after witnessing his ability to make each plate into a palette of culinary artwork and his knowledge on fresh products.
“We went searching for a fish supplier and brought Nixon with us,” Esther said. “We would question suppliers if the product is fresh from that day. Nixon would look at the product and know which supplier’s fish was actually fresh. Our fish supplier is now coming from New Jersey because it has to be the best.”
“When we looked for the perfect chef, we looked for someone who has the same passion as us,” Choni said. “We found that when we found Nixon.”
That passion was clear as the chefs whipped up Tuesday’s offerings.
Herdian prepared a honey wasabi mayo sauce while Sambuaga assembled another appetizer, seared blue fin toro nigiri.
Seared Blue Fin Toro Nigiri.
Sambuaga lightly torched 3 pieces of bluefin and balled each one with red rice. He placed the slabs across a bamboo leaf. Every strip was topped with a different color of masago. The plate was decorated with lines of sriracha and more edible flowers.
“On the East Coast, they haven’t discovered this menu yet,” Sambuaga said. “This is something different. We’re having bluefin tuna! Bluefin is the highest quality of tuna. That’s something not many restaurants have.”
Avocado enclosed in tuna and paired with masago, scallions, spicy mayo, and honey wasabi sauce.
“My favorite dish to make is the tuna tartar,” Herdian added.
The Grunblatts hired Rabbi Shmarya Gershon, of the certification agency Vaad haKashrus of Fairfield County, to work full time to ensure the restaurant complies with kosher guidelines.
“I think introducing a fresh concept and fresh product creates a whole new excitement for our town,” Choni said. “We’re looking to excel in the details that make up the entire concept of a sushi restaurant from the product, atmosphere, and customer service. And to make it that much better.”
Soon, two more sushi rolls were on display.
First, laguna rolls made with salmon and yellowtail, folded with avocado. Spicy bluefin tuna was garnished on top. Final touches included a spread of sweet sauce and honey wasabi mayo.
Last but not least, came the Armstrong roll (pictured). It featured bluefin tuna, salmon, and yellowtail paired with avocado, cucumber, and mango.
“The secret to making sushi,” Sambuaga said, “is to put love into it.”
Previous coverage of recommended take-orders to help keep local businesses survive the pandemic:
• Today’s Special: Haci’s Napoletana Pie
• Today’s Special: Fred & Patty’s Brie On Baguette
• Today’s Special: Nieda’s Moist Falafel
• Today’s Special: Qulen’s Vegan “Wings”
• Today’s Special: Aaron’s Peruvian Rice Bowl
• Today’s Special: Singh Bros.’ Chana Kulcha
• Today’s Special: Grandma’s Chicken Soup
• Today’s Special: Woody’s Steak & Shrimp
• Today’s Special: Shilmat’s Yemisir Sambusa
• Today’s Special: Arjun’s Vegetarian Manchurian
• Today’s Special: Mohammed’s Bhel Poori
• Today’s Special: Francesco’s Tortelli
• Today’s Special: Seikichi’s Sushi
• Today’s Special: Ketkeo’s Khao Poon