Jeweler Hits Gold — Anniversary

Fifty years ago, Derek Simpson began selling jewelry from a tiny storefront on Park Street.

Fifty years later, he gazes out on Chapel Street from a spacious showroom filled with hundreds of pieces of his own design.

As he celebrates the golden anniversary, he’s still going strong, a survivor in a retail niche that has otherwise disappeared downtown. And remembering how he got here.

“I didn’t really have a plan,” said Simpson, matter-of-factly. ​“I never really intended to stay. But I fell in love with New Haven.”

Born and raised in England, Simpson was introduced to silversmithing and jewelry at the Sheffield College of Arts & Crafts. Sheffield was known for its cutlery manufacturing trade; Simpson learned from masters of the craft and subsequently earned a three-year scholarship to study at the Royal College of Art in the School of Silversmithing and Jewelry in London.

Upon graduation, Simpson hopped around Europe trying to make his way. After noticing Simpson’s work at an exhibit, American jeweler Bert C. Gore invited Simpson to work with him at his Paris studio.

“I lived a bohemian existence in Paris,” said Simpson. “[Gore] let me live in his studio near Montparnasse while he lived with his family nearby. I was happy, I was living in Paris — it was wonderful.”

In the fall of 1970, Simpson came to the U.S. for the first time to visit family near New Haven. 

“I never intended to stay,” said Simpson. ​“I came for the experience and to do some teaching.”

For most master jewelers, teaching is the only way to make a stable income. He had taught back in England for a few years after his stint in Paris; he knew that he didn’t want to fall into the same ​“teaching rut that so many of [his] colleagues invariably did.”

But starting a business of his own would be no easy task.

“It’s difficult to establish yourself as an independent jeweler unless you have a lot of money, and I had very little,” said Simpson.

An opportunity presented itself when a realtor asked if he would like to use a retail space on 151 Park St., in the same building as the Viva Zapata’s restaurant, free of charge. Simpson jumped at the opportunity, set up his first showroom, and opened for business on Jan. 1, 1971. 

Simpson’s wares gained traction in the community. He took on teaching five women jewelry on the side. (“Some of them still come by to say hello once in a while!)

By 1974, Simpson had outgrown the tiny showroom at the Park Street storefront and moved to a retail space at 46 High St., beneath the then-still-in-construction Yale Center for British Art. Derek Simpson Goldsmith has stayed in the same building ever since, moving around the corner to the current 1094 Chapel St. storefront in 1994.

Over the years, Simpson has watched New Haven’s other traditional jewelry stores disappear. In 2012, neighboring Savitt Jewelers closed after 92 years. The New Haven locations of Michaels Jewelers and Sykes-Libby Jewelers both shut down, as well, leaving Simpson as the only master jeweler left in the city.

“Independent shops are very few and far between,” said Simpson. ​“You’ll find them in big cities and maybe some smaller academic towns across the country, but it’s a challenging trade.”

In 1976, Simpson was commissioned by the City of New Haven to create a silver pillbox with nine squares — representing the original city plan on New Haven — to be presented to Queen Elizabeth II during U.S. bicentennial celebrations. Tennis player Andre Agassi (pictured) routinely wore an earring that Simpson made for him on the court.

Simpson’s business has come primarily from individual customers walking in wanting custom rings, necklaces, or earrings. 

“Styles have definitely changed over the years,” he reflected. ​“Nowadays, especially with wedding and engagement rings, people seem to be going for a more minimalistic look.”

Simpson recalled one of his favorite pieces, a silver baby rattle made in the shape of a briefcase. Two Yale Law students he had gotten to know during their studies got married and moved to New York to start work at a firm. When they had a child, they reached out to Simpson for the custom piece — a nod to their careers and how they met.

“I’ve had a lot of long-term relationships like that,” said Simpson.

Behind the spacious showroom is Simpson’s studio, containing his workbench and his tool collection. He has many of the same tools since he began working with jewelry back in college. Once he has sketched out his designs, it usually takes anywhere from a few hours to 2 or 3 days to create the final product.

“I never get tired of it,” said Simpson. I’ve always had a creative drive, a true love for it. I also do a lot of painting.”

To celebrate the 50th anniversary, Derek Simpson Goldsmith is offering 20 percent off all jewelry, as well as a $50 gift card for every $250 spent now through Feb. 28. The storefront is open for business, as is a new online shop, www.shopdereksimpsongoldsmith.com.

“I’m happy here,” said Simpson. ​“People have always been so friendly. There are a lot of smart, engaged people. And I’m not planning on returning to the U.K. I’m just going to keep going — I love it.”