Tlaxcala Diary, Part IV

Fair Haven’s Father Jim Manship blogged his recent trip to Mexico. His fourth entry follows. 

Guardias de La Malinche — Protectors of the Malinche

At the foot of the dormant volcano, La Malinche, you will find the town of Tetlanohcan. The volcano is the dominant geographical feature of the area as well as a source of pride for the place that it holds in the collective imagination of the people. There has been a renewed effort of the people to safeguard the environment of La Malinche, particularly the surrounding forested areas. There is an intimate connection between the people and the land. Attempts to exploit the resources have been met by opposition by the residents here. But there is yet more that the people of Tetlanohcan are trying to protect.

lamalinche.png
The dormant volcano, La Malinche”.

In the shadow of La Malinche, just before one leaves the town proper, there is a humble building that has come to be known as Casa de Tequitilis. From the language of the Aztec, nahuatl, tequitilis is roughly translated community work/project/effort.”

casadetequitilis.pngCasa de Tequitilis, home to the project, CAFAMI.

Indeed the Casa de Tequitilis is just that, a labor of the community to protect its culture and indigenous traditions. The urbanization of so much of the area, the increasing concern for adequate water sources, and absence of so many family members because of emigration to the north has had a dramatic effect on this community. The Casa de Tequitilis houses a project that addresses the special needs of indigenous families who have been impacted by the emigration of their family members.

The project is named, Centro de Atención a la Familia Migrante Ind√≠gena, better known as CAFAMI, roughly translated, Center for the Care of the Indigenous Migrant Family. Organized by a social anthropologist from Puebla, Mx, Marco Castillo, has had success in developing local leadership, especially among the women, mothers and wives of those children and husbands who found it necessary to emigrate to the north.

cafamigroup.pngFar left rear, Marco Castillo, social anthropologist, with some of the young people involved in CAFAMI, including
a talented young woman (front right), Manuela Cuapio, whose father is a leader in the Tetlanohcan community in New Haven.

Immigration has disrupted not only individual and extended families, but the whole community in its ability to hand on the traditions of their ancestors. Through the work of Castillo and the people of Tetlanochan, there has been an authentic renewal and appreciation of their native past, from which they draw strength. At the Casa de Tequitilis, one can experience the traditional crafts of hand embroidery and other arts, the cultivation of medicinal plants, preparation of traditional cuisine, the teaching of the native language, nahuatl, and folkloric dance.

do%C3%B1aluisa.pngOne of the women of Tetlanohcan showing some of her embroidery work, which will provide a source of income for the work of CAFAMI.

casadinner.pngLeft to right, Dr. Verduzco, Dr. Winter, student investigator Ana Minian, and the mayor of Tetlanohcan, Prof. Pablo Ortiz-Retama, enjoying the warm hospitality and traditional cuisine at Casa de Tequitilis.


In the embedded video, as we finished our meal, the women serenade us with a traditional song in nahuatl. (Click on the play arrow to watch.)

folkloricdance.png
(Courtesy of CAFAMI) The folkloric dance group, Women of the Malinche (Soame Matlalcuyetl). Because many men have emigrated north, the women must take the roles played by them in their folkloric dance (2nd row).

An important question.

Is this not a human right, to hand on ones traditions and culture from generation to the next? This is the question that Marco Castillo and the women of the Casa de Tequitilis posed for us visitors. Moreover, do not the indigenous people of the continent have the human right cross boarders that were imposed upon them? (In later blog entry, I was confronted with this reality face to face.)

In the state capital building of Tlaxcala, there is a breathtaking mural, painted by Desiderio Hernandez Xochitiotzin, that depicts the pre-Hispanic history of the Tlaxcaltecas. They are the only indigenous tribe that was never conquered by the Aztecs. I must say that there continues to be a fierce independence and pride among those from Tlaxcala. The photo below depicts a famous battle and defeat of the Aztecs.

aztecas.pngThe mural shows another prominent volcano in the background, Popocateptl, Popo.”

A student pointed out this one particular panel of the mural (photo), which captures this sense of handing on the history, culture, and tradition from one generation to the next.

murales.pngTransmission of tradition and culture from one generation to the next.

Last year, Marco Castillo was successful in bringing 10 women to the states for a cultural exchange, which included demonstrations of dance, language, and cuisine. The Women of Malinche, with the collaboration of Marco Castillo and Dr. Jay Winter, and with the support of the community, will hopefully visit the states again, with a even a larger group of women. As they did in their last visit, they hope to share with us the richness of their culture, reconnect with their family members they have not seen in many years, and to touch and to speak to their grandchildren. Colonies of people from Tetlanohcan can be found in New Haven, New York, Atlanta, and in the LA/Oxnard area in California. Hopefully the Women of La Malinche will be able to visit each of these communities.

Finally, a quick word about Malinche, the person for whom the volcano takes its name, was a native woman, who served as a translator for Her√°n Cortez, and made it possible for the conquest of the Aztecs and the many alliances forged in that effort. In some circles, she is considered a traitor, and an example of all that is bad. For others, she is considered a noble indigenous woman of immense intelligence and fortitude. The women of the Malinche are noble, intelligent, strong, and despite their fierce independence, demonstrate the value of tequitilis, to safeguard their traditions of their people.

Previous entries:
Entry # 3
Entry #2
Entry #1

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