Paul Bass Photo
Poreyah Benton at work in the mobile Vegan Ahava kitchen.
Plant-based cooking in the Elm City.
It was Thursday, so the orders were coming in for the meatless, dairy-free “Philly Cheesesteak” inside New Haven’s newest — and first vegan — food truck.
The truck, parked at the western edge of the Green on College Street, is called Vegan Ahava — the latter word being Hebrew for “love.”
Customers like downtown lawyer and “pescatarian” Alan Bowie (pictured) have already become regulars.
Israeli native Poreyah Benton opened the business two and a half weeks ago. “I’ve never had anything I didn’t like,” Bowie said as he waited for his cheesesteak, the daily special.
Inside the truck, sous-chef Jalita Manning got started on the order. She spread veganaise on an Amoroso roll …
… then added pre-sauteed peppers. A mix of peppers, she said, “for the colors.” She slipped in the pre-sauteed seitan (aka wheat meat).
Benton (pictured) who is 27 and lives in Westville, had made the seitan earlier, from scratch: She buys wheat gluten in bulk from Edge of the Woods, then mixes in water along with tamari. “Back home in Israel, we call it kel-bone,” Benton said. Benton has been eating vegan all her life, since growing up in Dimona, Israel, as part of the African Hebrew Israelite community (which has been eating animal-free for a half century). She remained vegan when she moved to the U.S. She worked post office, cleaning service, and airline gate jobs. Her dream was to start the business.
A stint along with Manning at the culinary training program at ConnCAT taught her knife skills as well as business skills. Her fiancee put up the money for the truck, and she was in business. So far the Thursday cheesesteak is the top seller. “I first tried it in the vegan diner in New York,” Benton said. She adapted the dish with her homemade seitan recipe, liquid aminos …
… and a splash of sriracha hot sauce …
… which Manning applied to the sandwich along with some Tofutti brand American “cheese” before Benton slipped it in the oven. “It’s all about flavor,” Benton said. “That’s why people come back every Thursday.”
Manning handed the sandwich over to Benton to slip into the oven, from which it emerged moments later, the cheese melted, the order ready for another customer along with fries.
One of the waiting customers was Larry Murphy — aka “Chef.” He was one of Benton’s and Manning’s instructors at ConnCAT. He showed up Thursday along with lead ConnCAT chef and culinary instructor Jenna Martin. One ordered the cheesesteak with seitan, the other with portobello mushroom.
The Independent’s Vegan Vittler fact-checked the customers’ reactions by consuming a Vegan Ahava Philly cheesesteak, and confirmed that it makes for a hearty, healthful meal indeed.
Vegan Ahava is open on College Street between Elm and Chapel Streets Tuesdays through Fridays from 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesday’s special is tacos; Wednesday is Caribbean day, featuring curried chick peas and coconut rice and cauliflower; Thursday features the Philly Cheesesteaks; and Fridays and Saturdays feature soul food specialties including the Jackson Five: mac and cheese, corn bread, sweet potato pie, broccoli and tofu. The business also takes catering orders. Find out more about the full menu (including desserts) and the business at its Facebook page or email Benton .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).
